Tik-Tak-TaKo
Photography Alyssa Allworth / Food by täkō
The great thing about cuisine—any cuisine—is its ability to travel well, to be borderless, and subject to changes, variations, and interpretations that are as vibrant as communities where they are embraced. Tacos, for example, may have provenance in Mexico but are as malleable, universal, and open-ended as the imagination of chefs tinkering with corn tortillas. Richard DeShantz, Chef/Owner of täkō is one such foodie-creative. In the kitchen at täkō he speaks to Mexican traditions, adds Asian notes, and all the while maintains street taqueria cred.
Chef DeShantz should be familiar to us all. He is the eponymous force behind Richard DeShantz Restaurant Group that includes Meat & Potatoes, a seasonally inspired gastropub; Butcher and the Rye, an acclaimed rustic Americana restaurant with an extensive whiskey program; Poulet Bleu, an American Bistro where modern meets rustic that brings French fare to Pittsburgh, and Coop De Ville, a Southern Table, fast-casual restaurant where fried chicken is the star.
The menu täkō at taco will also be familiar, but like the country of Mexico itself, the food is a polyphony of regional voices. Al Pastor and Pollo Asado make their respective cameos on the menu but as does the Korean taco made with flank steak, spicy cucumber, napa cabbage, peanut salsa, soybean glaze. As your senses appreciate the crisp and silken textures that center on the flank, the eye falls on a taco made with grilled octopus, harissa aioli, fried chickpeas, charred jalapeno pico de gallo. And after that amazing offering, you will be tempted by another. Guaranteed.
Bookend with your taco adventure with queso fundido, a classic starter of beautifully melted cheese and select toppings served with housemade chips, then indulge with the churros with miso caramel and smoked chile chocolate for a sweet ending. You will leave, albeit slowly, with a smile on your face.
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