Spring a Leek

Story by Rhonda Schuldt/ Photographed by Adam Milliron

As frigid winter days give way to the warming spring thaw, cold-hardy leeks are still in season as their delicate cousins, spring onions and wild ramps, are just emerging.

A member of the allium family, the leek is a classic ingredient in French cuisine (and also a national symbol of Wales). However, it isn’t often a culinary staple in the U.S. With a sweet, subtle onion-garlic flavor and versatility, leeks really do deserve a regular place in the veggie drawer.

The mild-flavored leek is a delightful addition to egg dishes, gratins and pastas, and a stand-out as a delicious side dish when steamed, braised, grilled, roasted, sautéed, and even pickled. Leeks are probably most well-known for their role in the ubiquitous chilled potato-leek soup, Vichyssoise.

I still like my soup hot in early spring, so I married this classic with another allium-based hearty soup to create a new classic: Frenchyssoise.

Frenchyssoise

A reinvented version of classic French Onion Soup paired with Vichyssoise, this light and healthful allium-filled soup is served hot like its French Onion inspiration, but rather than a gooey, stringy dining challenge, the goat cheese melts into this soup, creating a delicately creamy treat.

4 tablespoons butter*

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra

4 medium leeks, white and pale-green parts only, tough outer layer removed, halved lengthwise, rinsed well, and thinly sliced crosswise

2 shallots, halved and finely sliced

1 clove garlic, finely minced

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon black pepper

2 tablespoons sweet rice flour**

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves (or ½ teaspoon dried thyme)

1 cup dry white wine

1 quart organic, low-sodium chicken stock*

1 medium redskin potato, scrubbed, unpeeled

1 four-ounce goat cheese log, sliced into 6 thin slices

Parsley, freshly chopped

1 scallion

Place butter and 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large soup pot or Dutch oven and heat over medium-high. Add leeks and shallots. Reduce heat to medium and sauté approximately 5 minutes until leeks and shallots are tender, taking care not to over-brown them. Add garlic, salt, and pepper and sauté another two minutes. Stir in the rice flour and cook another 1 to 2 minutes. Add thyme sprig and wine. Increase temperature to medium-high and cook until wine has reduced by half and starts to thicken. Stir in chicken stock until well-incorporated. Lower heat and let soup simmer for 20 minutes.

While soup simmers, preheat oven to 375 degrees. Thinly slice the potato into six slices. Brush with olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and roast for 10 to 12 minutes, flip, and cook another 5 minutes or until browned and crisp. Set aside until ready to serve.

Divide soup among serving bowls. Garnish with a potato crisp topped with a goat cheese slice. Sprinkle with fresh parsley and freshly ground pepper.

6 servings

· Can be made in advance and gently reheated.

· *Vegan version – omit butter and increase olive oil or use vegan butter substitute. Use vegetable stock in place of chicken stock. Omit goat cheese or use a vegan cheese substitute.

· **Can substitute regular all-purpose flour, but will not be gluten-free