Get Grillin': Soju
Sweet, sticky sauces, slow-smoked meats, and savory sides: there’s nothing like the smell of barbeque in the summer. Aficionados know that “barbeque” is a sweeping term that includes American-regional styles like South Carolina’s vinegar-based sauce or Memphis-style slow-smoked, rubbed ribs, as well as many international traditions. Korea hits the sweet-savory mark with their thinly-sliced, grill-marked meats, and tender pork topped with smoky, hot jerk sauce brings the Caribbean into the grill game. Five of Pittsburgh’s grill masters share their masterpieces, from traditional smoked brisket to bulgogi.
Chef Simon Chough of Soju fills his menu with flavor. Find Korean-American dishes such as the Killer Tofu, a crispy tofu tossed in a pineapple glaze, or Kimchi-Chi Nachos, fried wontons topped with nori, mushrooms, and more. Chough’s traditional Korean BBQ Combo, featuring bulgogi, dwaejibulgogi, and kalbi, is not to be missed. Chef Simon describes how it is done: “When I teach people about how to prepare Korean BBQ instead of giving them a recipe, I like to give them guidelines. This allows the cook to observe what each ingredient adds to the dish and develop their own preferences or style; the possibilities are limitless. This way of thinking about Korean BBQ is a gift my grandmother gave me when I was just a boy, a gift that I am proud to pass on.”
BBQ Combo
When I teach people about how to prepare Korean BBQ instead of giving them a recipe, I like to give them guidelines. This allows the cook to observe what each ingredient adds to the dish and develop their own preferences or style; the possibilities are limitless. This way of thinking about Korean BBQ is a gift my grandmother gave me when I was just a boy, a gift that I am proud to pass on.
Step 1: Choose your cut of meat
For the Soju BBQ combination we use beef short rib, beef tri-tip, and pork shoulder, but you can use almost any cut meat depending on what texture you are looking for. Westerners tend to enjoy cuts that are tenderer, like filet or strip steak, while Koreans enjoy the more chewy cuts like short rib. The cuts we use are a good representation of both. Just go to your butcher and tell them to slice it thin (about 1/4 inch).
Step 2: Marinate your meat
A good place to start when making a Korean BBQ marinade is soy sauce, sugar, and sesame oil in equal portions. Then you might consider some aromatics like finely chopped onion (green or white), garlic, or ginger. For spice I like to use black pepper and gochujang (Korean red pepper paste) and to add some depth to the sweetness I use Asian pear and mirin (sweet rice wine). With Korean BBQ you have the luxury of having many small pieces of meat so play with different combinations in your marinade and taste often. When you find the right mixture, apply marinade just enough to coat the meat – your meat should not be swimming in marinade. Rest for 4 to 24 hours.
Step 3: Grilling
You can use many cooking methods for Korean BBQ. A cast-iron skillet works fine indoors, or use a charcoal or gas grill outdoors. If you want to get traditional, buy a tabletop grill so you can grill while you eat. No matter what method you choose, high heat is a must. We like to sear our meat on high heat for about 30 to 60 seconds a side and then leave it to rest and render on low heat for about 5 minutes. Then, serve with rice, nori, and kimchi.
RECIPE BY SIMON CHOUGH/ STORY BY MAGGIE WEAVER / PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATT DAYAK/ STYLING BY QUELCEY KOGEL
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