Bigoli in Salsa

During a recent visit to her Italian hometown, TABLE Magazine contributor Sara Ghedina spent some time in the kitchen sharing a handful of traditional foods from the Veneto.

In addition this tasty dish, try Sara’s recipes for Braised chicken and potatoes Pollo in Umido, risotto with peas Risi e Bisi, and marinate sardines Sarde in Saor.

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Bigoli (orbigoi in the dialect of the Veneto) are thick, spaghetti-like pasta typical of the Veneto and eastern Lombardy. They are available fresh or dried, whole wheat or white. Common sauces for this type of pasta in the Veneto region are duck ragùa, or humble yet flavor-filled salsa of sardines (or anchovies) and onions. Characterized by the combination of sweet and saltiness, this dish is typically consumed among locals on fasting days such as Christmas Eve, Ash Wednesday, and Good Friday, but you can find it year-round in local osterie and restaurants.

Bigoli in Salsa

Whole-Wheat Spaghetti with Anchovy Sauce

2 large (or 3 smaller) yellow onions

1 cup + 1/2 cup dry white wine

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

3 garlic cloves

7 large salt-packed sardines (or 1 can anchovies)

1 lb whole-wheat spaghetti or bigoli

Salt and pepper, to taste

1/4 cup fresh parsley

Cut onions in half and slice them really thin. Bring a large pot of water to boil with 1 cup white wine, blanch onions for 1 minute, drain and set aside.

Heat olive oil in a large pan, add whole peeled garlic cloves, and cook for 2 minutes. Take them away and add onions. Cook at low-medium heat for about 20 minutes, stirring constantly. Onions should become translucent, be careful not to let them brown, and add a bit of water if needed.

If using salt-packed sardines, soak them in a bowl filled with cold water for a few minutes. Drain them on paper towels, split in half and remove their spines, tails, guts, and bones. If using anchovies, drain oil completely. Cut in small pieces.

Meanwhile, bring another large pot of water to boil, add salt as needed, and cook bigoli al dente, following package instructions. Add sardines (or anchovies) to the onion, pour in the rest of the wine, and let it evaporate completely cooking at medium-high heat. Drain bigoli and sauté in the pan with the onions and sardines for 1 minute. Taste and add salt only if needed. Season with black pepper and few leaves of fresh parsley. Serve immediately.

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY SARA GHEDINA