Sarde in Saor

A deeply traditional recipe for marinated sardines from Italy’s Veneto region

During a recent visit to her Italian hometown, TABLE Magazine contributor Sara Ghedina spent some time in the kitchen sharing a handful of traditional foods from the Veneto.

In addition this tasty dish, try Sara’s recipes for Bigoli in Salsa, risotto with peas Risi e Bisi, and Braised Chicken and potatoes Pollo in Umido.

Sarde in Saor (Marinated Sardines)

Serves 8

In the dialect of Venice and surrounding areas, saor means “taste.” The term is used to indicate a specific seasoning - based on vinegar, onions and other sweet and sour elements - that the fishermen invented to preserve their fish, in the absence of refrigerators. It is an ancient practice in Venetian cuisine, which is now used for shellfish and vegetables as well.

Sarde in saor are traditionally prepared for the Festa del Redentore in the middle of July (one of the most popular Venice festivals, with magnificent fireworks that are reflected in Saint Mark’s Basin), but you can find them year-round in local restaurants and wine bars. For a full Venetian experience, serve this characteristic appetizer with a glass of chilled Pinot Grigio or Prosecco.

2 lb whole sardines, gutted, scaled, and heads removed

1 cup flour

Sunflower oil, for frying

4 to 5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

3 lb yellow onions, thinly sliced

4 bay leaves

1 cup white wine vinegar

3/4 cup raisins

1/4 cup pine nuts

Salt and pepper, to taste

Rinse the sardines under cold water and pat them dry with paper towel. Place flour in a large bowl, add the sardines, and toss to dust evenly. Shake off any excess.

Heat sunflower oil in a medium frying pan, and fry the sardines in batches, a few minutes on each side, until they are crisp on the outside. Drain and transfer to a plate covered with paper towel. Season with salt and repeat with the remaining sardines, working in batches.

Meanwhile, heat olive oil in a large saucepan, add onions, bay leaves and vinegar, season with salt and pepper, cover the pan and cook at low heat stirring often, until onions are soft and translucent, about 40 to 45 minutes.

Arrange a thin layer of onion in a large glass bowl. Sprinkle with some raisins and pine nuts and cover with a layer of sardines. Repeat in layers until you have used all the ingredients, finishing with a layer of onions, raisins and pine nuts. Pour on top any cooking liquid that is left from the onion.

Let cool down, then cover with plastic and place in the refrigerator to marinate for at least 24 hours, but even better for 48 hours or longer.

Serve them as an appetizer with a slice of grilled polenta. Keep marinated sardines in the refrigerator but remember to take them out a few hours before serving, as they should be eaten at room temperature.

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY SARA GHEDINA