Play with Your Polenta
Photography by Andrew Burkle // Food Styling by Clare Vredevoogd
Polenta, a humble staple of the northern Italian kitchen, is essentially porridge made with cornmeal. You can use any cornmeal, but tradition requires meal milled from otto filet corn. There are still polentas made from this flavorful and colorful original, but “polenta” on the label is no guarantee. Artisanal polentas made in the United States are often grown with strains derived from otto filet, but these are often coarsely ground and will take longer to cook. Whichever you choose, it is wise to avoid the instant polenta that will save you time, but at the cost of flavor and texture.
Make a basic polenta recipe once for practice, and then go back again and again to experiment and play. Traditionally topped with shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano or your favorite sauce, a bowl of polenta also welcomes sausage, roasted veggies, shrimp, brown butter - you name it.
Your choices should please the eyes as well as the taste buds. A painterly approach to polenta can lead to flowers, faces, or perhaps a sun. If you go this route, as pictured here, pour a layer of polenta into the ovenproof serving container of your choice, brush it with a bit of olive oil and decorate with bits of finely sliced vegetables and herbs. Put it under the broiler just long enough to achieve a touch of gold on the veggies, but no longer. Try this recipe for Polenta with Brown Butter-Balsamic Mushrooms and Goat Cheese Topping. You won’t regret it.
Polenta with Brown Butter-Balsamic Mushrooms
Ingredients
For the polenta:
6 cups chicken stock or water
2 cups cornmeal, medium or coarse
4 tbsp butter
2 tsp salt
3/4 cup shaved Parmigiano
For the topping:
8 oz goat cheese
2/3 cup heavy cream or as needed
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 tbsp olive oil
11/2 lb mushrooms white or cremini, stemmed and quartered
Salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup butter
2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
Fresh chopped basil, oregano, or tarragon
Instructions
For the polenta:
Measure the stock or water into a large pot; whisk in the polenta, making sure that there are no lumps. Put the pot onto a medium-high element and whisk until it just comes to a boil. Reduce the heat to very low.
Continue to whisk frequently until polenta just starts to bloom, that is, when it becomes a yellow liquid and not just corn floating in water. This can take up to 10 minutes for coarser grains. Cover with the lid just slightly ajar and cook until finished. The amount of time will depend on the grind of the polenta you use: very coarse can take over an hour; finer grind may be 25 to 30 minutes. For all grinds, you will continue to whisk frequently until the polenta becomes too stiff to whisk. When this happens, change to a wooden spoon, making sure to whisk/stir the bottom of the pot to prevent sticking. Taste for doneness when it thickens. You do not want the polenta to be al dente.
When you reach this stage, stir in the butter and season with salt to taste. Top with shaved cheese and a drizzle of olive oil or any other topping you choose.
For the mushroom topping:
Using a fork, mash the cheese and blend with enough cream to make a smooth spread. Depending on the cheese that you use, this should take 2/3 cup of cream. It should be creamy and able to be dolloped but not runny. Set aside.
In a large sauté pan over medium heat, sauté minced garlic in olive oil about a minute. Immediately add mushrooms to the pan, then season with salt and pepper. Sauté mushrooms until soft and their liquid has cooked off, stirring often. Turn off heat and leave pan on burner to keep mushrooms warm.
While mushrooms sauté, make brown butter vinaigrette. Melt butter in a small pan over low heat until it turns a deep brown color, about 3 to 5 minutes. Remove butter from heat and cool slightly, about 2 minutes. Put 4 tablespoons of the brown butter in a glass container and add balsamic vinegar. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour the vinaigrette over mushrooms and toss.
To serve, put the basic polenta (no toppings) in a bowl, top with mushrooms, and then top the mushrooms with dollops of the creamy goat cheese. Add chopped herbs if desired.
Notes
Do not use corn flour when making polenta.
Most recipes direct you to bring the water to a boil and then add the polenta. Adding it first and whisking as it heats ensures that there will be no lumps.
STORY and RECIPE BY Stephanie Sullivan // PHOTOGRAPHY BY Andrew Burkle // FOOD STYLING BY Clare Vredevoogd // PRODUCTION BY BURKLEHAGEN
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