Sip and Swirl
Photography by Adam Milliron // Styling by Ana Kelly
Though every season provides moments of culinary delight, I must admit I’m partial to the bounty that summer affords us, namely an abundance of fresh produce and conditions that demand the use of a grill. With such a diversity of delectable seasonal ingredients, we’re truly spoiled for choice – but that kaleidoscope of flavors can sometimes prove challenging when it comes to finding the right wine(s) for the occasion.
Like many of you, I am thrilled that rosé has had a recent resurgence as the category has stepped out of the dark shadow cast by oceans of sickly sweet white Zinfandel. There is, however, more to the story than pale pink Provençal juice; rosé comes in a variety of shades from a plethora of different regions and grapes, and they pair perfectly with many classic summer foods. And while soaring temperatures scream for white wine alongside rosé, several reds have a rightful place at the picnic table.
Salad Season
One of the joys of summer is a crunchy, just-picked salad. Pairing wines with vegetables can, however, be a little bit of a minefield. If you’re using greens as a base for your salad, there are a few grapes that fit the bill. A personal favorite is Vermentino, an Italian variety that can be found in several regions but does its best work, in my estimation, on the islands of Sardinia and Corsica. Bursting with notes of lime, lemon, and green apple, it often finishes with a hint of sea spray and bitter almond, making it suitable for an array of salads (and it takes the addition of seafood and a citrus vinaigrette to new heights). The Domaine Vetriccie from Corsica is an absolute steal at $12, and the juicy Pala ‘I Fiori’ from Sardinia offers additional stone fruit and floral flavors for just a touch more ($18). Stadt Krems Grüner Veltliner ($15) from Austria is another veggie-friendly bottle to try.
Watermelon salads, which have become ubiquitous of late, are another summer highlight, and they deserve a snappy rosé to match. This is where our friends from Provence come into focus, whether you opt for something inexpensive like Jean-Luc Colombo Cape Bleue Rosé ($13) with its zesty blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre or splurge a bit on a personal favorite, Clos Cibonne Cuvée Tradition Rosé ($32) made chiefly from the rare indigenous Tibouren grape. They work just as well when you toss strawberries into your spinach salad, too.
Beyond Brews for Burgers
While I can’t argue against the classic pairing of burgers and beer, I humbly suggest that wine, too, deserves to be part of the conversation. The aforementioned rosés would certainly be welcome here, but I’d like to take this as an opportunity to highlight red wines that belong in your summer repertoire.
No, this isn’t the time to whip out big, burly bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah: they’re better for warming you up on a winter night and will weigh you down while sweating next to a grill. Better to serve reds that can be lightly chilled with a 30-40 minute stint in the fridge before serving. The trick is to find grapes that are low in tannin – the compound in grape skins that causes the drying, sometimes bitter sensation on the palate – but have high acidity and a light body, which results in an impression of juiciness. Cinsault is a perfect option with its flavors of crunchy red fruit and hints of herbs and earth, and South Africa’s The Blacksmith Paarl Cinsault ($29) is top-notch. The País grape, which is enjoying a renaissance in Chile, also does the trick; J Bouchon País Viejo provides gulpable goodness for a mere $15.
Barbecue Beckons
Whether it’s ribs, chicken, or brisket, it’s impossible to forget the central role barbecue plays in our lives this time of year. Here’s where we go off-piste with Parés Baltà Ros de Pacs ($11) from the Penedès region in Spain. This organic and biodynamic rosé, a blend of Garnatxa, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon, drinks more like a light red. Enjoy bold, dark red fruit flavors with black pepper and a smoky, vegetal edge that clearly demonstrates the diversity of rosé.
STORY BY ADAM KNOERZER // PHOTOGRAPHY BY ADAM MILLIRON //
STYLING BY ANA KELLY
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