“It began with a romance the day William Kryskill told his bride that someday he would build her a castle on the crest of a cornfield where they stood.” And so begins the fairy tale of Hyeholde Restaurant, a castle-turned-eatery that sits high on a hill in Coraopolis. 

The tale continues with Kryskill beginning the seven-year construction of his castle, designed to be part-living quarters and part-restaurant, in 1931. The next chapter sees Pat Foy at the helm, who transformed the place into a charming, sophisticated eatery before constructing a new entry and launching a nightclub in 1987.

Now in the hands of Kryskill’s daughter, the current chapter of Hyeholde infuses a menu of country French cooking with modern flair, under the eye of Chef Chris O'​Brien.

O’Brien brings dishes to his menu that have been “lost over the years,” spicing them up with fresh, seasonal ingredients. Playing off the historic, rustic charm of the place itself, he plates up the comforting, rich flavors and textures of French cuisine, what he calls “simple food done right.”

Whole Roasted Branzini Stuffed with Fennel, Truffle Butter Sauce, & Roasted Potatoes

Ingredients

1 bulb fennel, shaved and chopped
1/2 red onion, shaved
Olive oil
1 lemon, juiced and zested
Salt and pepper, to taste
4 whole branzini (1-1 ¼ each), scaled, deboned with backbone removed

1 cup white wine
2 bay leaves
2 tbsp thyme
1 shallot
1 lemon, juiced and zested
½ cup cream
½ lb butter
2-3 tbsp truffle oil

Salt, to taste

Directions

For branzini and fennel salad stuffing:

On a mandolin, thinly shave fennel and red onion into a mixing bowl. Chop fennel tops and mix with shaved salad. Lightly coat salad with olive oil, zested lemon and juice of one lemon. Season to taste with salt and pepper. To finish, season inside of fish with salt and pepper. Stuff with shaved fennel salad. Heat Teflon sauté pan with oil, place fish in pan over medium heat, two fish per pan at a time so as not to overcrowd pan. Cook over medium heat for 3-6 minutes per fish side. Finish in oven for 5-8 minutes at 375 degrees. Remove from pan and serve with roasted potatoes and butter sauce.

For truffle butter sauce:

Reduce white wine, bay leaves, thyme, chopped shallot, and lemon juice by two-thirds. Add cream and reduce until thick. Mount with butter and truffle oil. Add salt to taste and more lemon if needed. Strain and serve with fish.

Roasted potatoes:

Blanch fingerling potatoes in boiling water until tender. Cool potatoes. In sauté pan heat with oil brown the potatoes. Season with salt and pepper and finish with butter and chopped parsley.

Story Maggie Weaver/ Photography Dave Bryce / Styling Keith Recker