One of the almost-forgotten aspects of old food traditions is the “nothing goes to waste” ethos of farm life. The abundant fall harvest of apples and pears can’t be eaten all at once, and their healthy, nutritious sweetness had to be preserved for the winter ahead. In the Dutch province of Limburg, organic heirloom varieties of apples and pears are preserved as appelstroop, boiled in copper kettles over wood fires.

After hours and hours of cooking, the fruit goes into a giant press. This results in gallons of juice that goes back into the copper kettle to cook and reduce for a day, after which the mixture becomes much thicker. Now comes the moment of truth: the syrup maker determines when the syrup should stop cooking by dripping a small amount on a plate to check the consistency. The kettle is then quickly taken off the fire by a large lever and the syrup gets poured into jars.

 

The syrup has a very rich taste, not as sweet as you’d expect. The locals know what to eat it with: a cheese sandwich, sausages, and as an ingredient in marinades, stews and desserts. Depending on the variety of apples and pears used, every batch tastes different. Syrup makers all have their own signature syrup taste. Even without any additives the syrup remains delicious for many years, and can ripen further in the jars, just like a good wine. 

For other appelstroop recipes: Beer and Beef Stew with Appelstroop, Roasted Chicken with Mustard and Appelstroop, Savory Boffert Cake, Sautéed Endive with Appelstroop and Five Spices, and a local version from Executive Chef Jessica Lewis at The Oaklander’s Spirits & Tales restaurant, Polish Honey Cake with homemade Apple and Pear Syrup

Pear Tarte Tatin with Walnuts, Ginger and Apple Pear Syrup

Serves 8

 

Ingredients

For the dough:

4.2 oz flour

4.4 oz butter

4.4 oz cream cheese

½ tsp salt

 

For the filling:

2 lb pears

Zest and juice of 1 lemon

1 thumb-size piece of fresh ginger, peeled and grated

2 oz butter

2½ oz white castor sugar

2 large tbsp Apple Pear Syrup

2 oz roasted walnuts

 

Note: Use a wide and shallow pan or tarte tatin pan, about 12 inches in diameter.

 

Instructions

Combine all ingredients for the dough into a bowl. Knead by hand to a ball and let it rest for an hour in the fridge. Use a rolling pin to roll out a circle of 12 inches in diameter.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Peel the pears, cut them in half lengthwise and remove the core.

Toss the pears with lemon juice, zest, and ginger. Melt the butter in the tarte tatin pan and stir in the sugar and syrup. Lower the heat to its lowest setting.

Place the pears and walnuts in the pan, cover and let it simmer for 10 minutes. Take the pan from the heat and cover with the dough.

Tuck in any excess dough for a rustic look. Place the pan in the oven and bake the tarte tatin for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the dough is golden brown and crispy.

Let the cake cool down for 10 minutes. Turn it upside down on a plate and serve.

 

STORY and PROP STYLING BY MARIAN FLINT // PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAARTEN VANDERWAL // RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING BY INGMAR NIEZEN

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