From their beautiful boat, Will and Dottie Clower explore the world. They also taste it! This missive from Morocco describes some of the food they tasted while wandering a medina (marketplace), as well as a recipe for traditional Beef Tagine. Thank you, Will, for the words and images and flavors.

The wandering pathways of Moroccan medinas seem designed to keep people in. And it works! Nothing approaches a grid, and sometimes you find yourself circling by pyramids of spices you’ve definitely seen before.

While strolling through these aisles, our guide stopped at a stall making sardine pockets (in the video: embed link: https://youtu.be/4dDSocAXewM).

It turns out that Morocco is the world's largest exporter of sardines, making the little fish a street food staple. These sardines are typically coated lightly in flour, fried until golden, and often served with a fried green chili and spicy chermoula paste inside a crispy bread. Sizzling hot right out of the pan, the dish was bursting in flavors of coriander, chili, garlic, paprika, cumin, olive oil and lemon juice. This street food is as authentic and delicious as it gets.

Morocco taught us more about its food culture than just its favorite foods. What they eat is just as fascinating as how they eat it. Check out this video of our guide demonstrating exactly how Moroccans use bread and fingers instead of flatware. (embed link: https://youtu.be/lzpiN-dHZAE).

You immediately notice the deft way they use bread as a fork, a spoon and a mop. There’s a beauty to it – which isn’t surprising when you realize that their table etiquette is the outcome centuries of food culture.

Geography has played a big role in the formation of that culture. Sitting at the northwest corner of Africa, in sight of Europe, at the Atlantic entrance to the Mediterranean, Morocco was a pivotal location during the era of maritime spice trading. Once Vasco de Gama rounded the Horn of Africa and opened the Atlantic to ships heading back from Asia laden with delicious (and beautiful) wares, Morocco was an important stopping point – as were the ports of Spain, France and Italy. The spices they carried still create the flavors of Moroccan food we enjoy today.

But what are those, actually? When you savor a traditional tagine, you taste the delicious sum of the parts, but it can be hard to appreciate how they combine to create the delicious whole. We asked our guide to break it down for us, and it turns out that five critical spices form the base of all their recipes: turmeric, ginger, salt, black pepper and garlic. There are myriad variations on the theme, and the layers of flavors are as interwoven and complex as the winding ways of the medina itself. Both are well worth getting lost in.

Beef Tagine with Prunes and Apricots

This traditional recipe has been prepared by Moroccan moms and chefs for centuries. The magic is made by the flavors of the spices as well as the cook’s patience, which allows the time to meld everything into a delicious whole.

Ingredients

2 pounds of beef shoulder, cubed

1 medium onion, sliced

1 medium carrot, sliced into coins

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 tsp salt

1½ tsp pepper

¾ tsp turmeric

1 tsp ginger

½ tsp saffron, crumbled

1 tsp cinnamon, ground

¼ cup olive oil

½ cup of water

½ pound prunes

½ pound dried apricots

1 tsp cinnamon, ground

2 Tbsp honey

This dish can be made in a single Dutch oven or a traditional Moroccan tagine.

Layer the onions on the bottom of the Dutch oven and layer the carrot coins on top of them.

Next, put the meat into a large mixing bowl and add the garlic, salt, pepper, turmeric, saffron, cinnamon, and olive oil. Mix until thoroughly coated and then place on top of the carrot and onion base.

Cover and bring the mixture to a quick bubble on the stovetop. Once it’s sizzling vigorously, lower the heat and allow to simmer for at least an hour. Check periodically for the tenderness of the meat. When it’s falling apart, it’s ready.

While the meat is cooking, place the prunes and apricots in a pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil with the pot with the lid ajar to vent steam, and simmer for 20 minutes.

Once the fruit is quite tender, drain all but ½ cup of the liquid, add honey and cinnamon, and simmer for another 5 to 10 minutes until liquid thickens to a syrup.

When you remove the meat and vegetables from oven, place the apricots and prunes around the beef tagine, drizzle the syrup, and serve over couscous.

Moroccan Medina Street Food